[Transcript]
Origins of Surfing Culture
The Polynesian sport of surfing is thousands of years old. It was introduced to Western audiences here in California in the late 1800s, but the person most responsible for growing surfing culture in California came a bit later. His name was Duke Kahanamoku.
Meet Duke Kahanamoku
Duke was born in 1890 in Honolulu. He was a native Hawaiian, a natural athlete, and as a kid he spent a lot of time out in the water. In fact, his fame didn't originally come from surfing, but actually from swimming.
He was a three-time Olympian, and he won five medals, including three gold. Fame followed his Olympic success, so he performed in swimming exhibitions around the world. And whenever he could, he brought his surfboard with him.
Duke Brings Surfing
It's thought that Duke probably first surfed in California in July 1913, following his first Olympic victory. People gathered and watched as he traveled up and down the California coast, searching for the best surf. And along the way, he taught the locals how to do it for themselves.
But it was more than just surfing that kept people interested in Duke. He was kind, he was stoic, and he was built like a statue. People liked the way he spoke, the way he dressed, and the way he carried himself.
Surfing Goes Mainstream
So, in his wake, surfing communities began to take shape. Now at first, surfing was counter-cultural. It wasn't until much later, in the 1980s, that surfing became more mainstream.
Around that time, mega brands popularized not just the sport of surfing, but the way of life. And it's been pretty popular ever since. In fact, during the COVID pandemic, more and more people took it up than ever before.
And today, it's still going strong, all thanks to Duke Kahanamoku, the father of modern surfing.
